Sunday, June 12, 2011

Sun Dappled Rocks and Sea Salt



The Umpteenth Annual Camp Sh*tstorm Canoe Trip occurred this past week. It was a great trip with excellent fishing and even better comradeship. It might have been my favorite wilderness trip thus far.

Fran Tarkington Fan, The Smoked Fish Guy, and I finished up most of the packing on Thursday, June 2. A bear meandered across the Smoked Fish Guy's back yard as we ate supper. The rest of the gang arrived late that night and we all sacked out around the house. We woke up at dawn put the final items in the vehicles and hit the road on the morning of June 3. We headed north and made it through the Canadian border station in short order. After crossing a bridge that was very rough due to a construction project, we hit a snag. The canoe trailer that had been recently repaired had re-broken a weld. Wear-Some-Shorts made a temporary repair using some rope and we limped the unit into a nearby mining town. After striking out at the hardware store when looking for supplies to make a better repair, we soon found ourselves at a large fabricating shop, who nicely dropped everything to weld the offending piece. Repaired and with permit now in hand, we drove to the Quetico entry point just down the road, loaded the canoes and hit the water, just a bit later than planned. We cruised across the first lake and portage, then made our way through series of lakes and narrows to a campsite on a small river between two large lakes. After setting up camp and eating a great supper of steaks and asparagus with the local microbrew, we set out to get some evening walleyes. Gatorade and I did pretty well, getting a couple walleyes and a fairly large northern pike (around 30 inches). The others had less success, but a few other fish were caught. After some laughs catching up with each other around the campfire, we hit the hay.

Saturday morning dawn warm, sunny, and breezy. We packed up camp and had egg burritos for breakfast. After loading the canoes, we rode the tailwind east down the long, narrow lake, fishing as we went. Gatorade caught a really nice walleye (26") nearly right away, and we caught multiple smallmouth bass and small northern pike. We caught up with Wear-Some-Shorts as we crossed into some deeper water that looked good for lake trout. Both Gatorade and Wear-Some-Shorts caught nice lakers that were strung up for supper. A nice island campsite was found at the mouth of a bay and we set up camp, had a cocktail or two, and then the Smoked Fish Guy led the cooking up of a Thai curry rice with lake trout dish that was excellent. Unfortunately, a fillet knife accident during meal preparation resulted in Gatorade stitching up a nasty cut on the Smoked Fish Guy's left index finger. It was a nice evening.

On Sunday we packed up and hit the lake on another beautiful day. We made two moderate portages and arrived on our destination lake, a massive, wending body of water. Gatorade and I joined Tick Check and the Freshman at a rapids coming into the lake. We watched The Freshman fight a huge northern pike, but lose it after 15 minutes of fighting it. Fortunately, on his very next cast, the Freshman hooked another big fish. After a big battle, I helped to coach him on how to land a big pike and he secured the fish in his grasp. It was at least 40" long-his personal best. Gatorade and I failed to get any fish at the spot and we soon moved on to fish for lakers in the middle. We had no luck as we crossed the big part of the lake, but when we cruised into a deep narrows, both of our rods bent over. We were both surprised to reel up two nice walleyes on our trout spoons! We made a couple more passes in front of the rock face and caught several more nice walleyes on the spoons. We made a final small portage into the next lake and found the rest of the group on a fantastic five star campsite. All reported good luck catching nice sized walleyes, but no trout were found. A feast of red beans and rice with andouille sausage and fried walleye was prepared and subsequently devoured by the group. Another great day.

On Monday morning we switched up partners and left camp intact as we all explored areas of the lake. I was paired up with Fran Tarkington Fan and we found a few bass in shallow pockets as we fished our way to a major rapids pouring into the lake. Soon after throwing our first casts with jigs into the current, Fran Fan declares he has a snag. As we tried to get it out, however, the "snag" began to move. After about 15 minutes of a slow, dogged fight, I told Fran Fan that I thought he had a sturgeon (the largest freshwater fish in the area). After yet another 15 minutes, I thought the fish must be foul hooked. Finally the fish came to the surface and it was indeed a foul hooked sturgeon. Fran Fan landed it expertly and we got a quick photo before releasing it. We were 1/3 of a mile away from where the fish was first hooked. We went back to the current and proceeded to catch many "eater" sized walleyes. After a bit, we stopped at a nearby rock and took a bath on this warm, calm day. The rocks were warm, the water was not, but we succeeded in getting some of the grime off. From there we headed down the lake to its outlet, where there was significant current pouring over a deep rock reef. On the reef were many hefty walleyes. Tick Check and the Smoked Fish Guy along with Gatorade and Dr. Calm joined us in the bonanza. No monsters, but lots of 22"-23" walleyes were hauled up and released. Doubles in canoes were common and there were some triples and two near quadruples (four of us fighting walleyes at the same time). A very fun afternoon. We had fried walleye and gourmet mac and cheese for supper.

We woke to rain on Tuesday. We putzed around camp making blueberry pancakes and waiting for the rain to subside, which it did around noon. I was paired with Dr. Calm this day and we headed back up to the big rapids. Dr. Calm hooked a fish on his first cast and yet another long fight occurred. He finally landed a big northern pike after a good tussle. It was probably about 38 or 39 inches long, his biggest fish ever, and, true to his name, Dr. Calm's heart rate barely rose during the entire event. We caught a bunch more walleyes and we also got out of the canoes and explored the woods next to the rapids. It was raining again as we headed back to camp, but soon cleared. We enjoyed fried walleye and "Quetico Supremes" (grilled salami, swiss cheese, and mustard sandwiches) for supper.

On Wednesday it was damp, chilly, and windy. We packed up camp and struck out down the river to the next lake, fishing a few spots as went, getting a few nice walleyes and smallies and Gatorade got a decent pike. The Smoked Fish Guy and Fran Fan hit a little inlet and were rewarded with some big smallmouth bass. We made a few portages and were met with a stiff wind on our destination lake. After some exploration we settled on a campsite and ate our only meal without fish-pesto noodles with salamini. Fantastic-it might be my favorite.

Thursday dawned chilly but sunny and we all went out after lake trout. Tick Check and I caught a few bass and several walleyes right away, and after a good luck feather ceremony, I finally caught a nice trout off of a rock wall. Tick Check lost another good one right at the boat. Soon afterward he accidentally lost his rod and reel in the water. Our efforts to snag it back were fruitless. Gatorade and Freshman caught two nice lakers and Wear-Some-Shorts got his personal best trout-about 30 inches. It was Kek Burgers (lake trout bacon cheeseburgers) and baked trout for supper. The Smoked Fish Guy and Tick Check did a great job with another excellent meal.

On Friday we packed up and hit the first of four moderate portages. We made the carries without incident and ended up back at the spot where we camped the first night. We trolled our way past that site and into the next several lakes, which are connected by channels. Nearly all of us were rewarded with lake trout. We were back within one portage of the landing and the "crowds" appeared (still a heckuva lot less people than the BWCA). We found a nice campsite after a short search and set up a roaring fire on precipice of a cliff over looking the big, island studded lake. The sun came out just in time for a spectacular sunset. We dined on trout boiled in spiced water and drizzled with butter. The side dish was mashed potatoes with hamburger and veggies.

Finally, on Saturday, June 11, we packed up camp on a spectacularly sunny and calm morning. We cruised across the lone remaining portage and paddled to the landing and the waiting vehicles. We got the gear and canoes loaded and headed down the road, stopping for a "game and fish" checkpoint, which went fine, and for burgers once back in the USA. Back in Duluth, we shook hands and said our goodbyes, already discussing trip ideas for next year.

Looking back, this may have been my favorite trip ever. The fishing was excellent, the weather was great, the entire route was new to me, the food was out of this world, and the fellowship was beyond fun. There were a few bugs and other challenges, but they simply added to the adventure. Despite some long paddles and a few moderate portages, this trip was always relaxing. I am truly thankful that the group lets me join them and I am looking forward to next year.

My next trip will also be a good one-my beloved wife and child will be joining me on a family camping trip to the Gunflint Trail over the 4th of July.

Nature Moment: On the road heading to the entry point, we were lucky enough to see a mama bear and her twin cubs cross the road in front of us. The cubs were still tiny and super cute with their long legs flying everywhere as they ran. Kinda reminded me of Superkid.