Monday, May 17, 2010

Opening Weekend Blues

Opening weekend...a Minnesota holiday, a tradition that surpasses all others in the State. Opening weekend 2010. The last one I'll ever participate in?

This opening weekend started on Thursday for me. I had planned to go up on Friday morning, but a meeting on Thursday night up north got scheduled at the last minute, so I loaded up the truck and just went to my campsite after the meeting on Thursday. I ended up setting up camp on our favorite road accessible walleye shore fishing spot at 11pm in a 35 degree drizzle. It sounds worse than it was. The camping/fishing spot isn't a secret, so going up early assures me of getting the spot. Captain K and his girlfriend planned on joining me on Saturday.

So on Friday, we had the whole day to explore, just the Wonder Dog and I. It was rainy all day, but mostly just heavy drizzles. I broke out the GPS unit I had gotten for Christmas and taught myself to use it as we went. We bushwhacked to three different lakes that don't have a developed access, but the travel wasn't easy through the brush...portaging a canoe or even carrying fishing poles would be tough. The GPS unit worked great, but it turned out to be unnecessary on the way back to the truck...I discovered that the Wonder Dog actually does have a talent...he can track his own scent really well. Each time he led the way back to truck on exactly the route we took to get to the lakes. It cleared off that evening and it was a chilly night.

On Saturday, Opening Day, we got up early and drove to a designated stream trout lake. We got loaded up in the canoe and I noticed the Wonder Dog's hips were a bit sore and he barely made into the canoe on his own. He had been struggling all winter with his hips. We trolled down that lake with no bites and found the portage to the next lake over. We made the portage and this time the Wonder Dog really had a heckuva time getting into the canoe and I had trouble helping him because of the friendly people that were sharing the portage had placed their canoe in such a way that clogged the whole landing. So I moved a bit deeper at the landing and helped the dog into the canoe. It was at this time that I discovered by trusty, but well worn, rubber boots were leaking. Awesome. The water is still very cold, despite the early spring. I made one trolling pass around the entire lake and caught two decent lake trout. By the time I left the small lake there were over 10 other boats fishing the lake. Crowded by my standards. We portaged back to the other lake, and again struggle get loaded because a canoe was clogging the landing. This time we struggled enough that I was forced to come to a realization. This paddle across the lake to the truck was going to be the Wonder Dog's last canoe ride. Not of the day, but of his life. He just can't get in and out anymore. We then took a shore fishing tour of the area, catching absolutely no fish. That night back at camp, I made supper and started fishing for walleyes from shore. Three parties started down the trail from the road and turned around when they saw I was there. I expected Captain K and his date to arrive, but they didn't show. Later, another loud party came down the trail in an attempt to fish the spot. This party of two men and two small kids didn't turn around when they saw me. Their leader declared that he had fished this spot for a long time and he was fishing there that night. I said it was a small spot, my friends were on their way, but he decided to fish anyway. I said, okay then. I talked a bit with my new friends and the kids liked playing with the Wonder Dog. Captain K and his girlfriend finally showed up and they were forced to fish on the shallow, snaggy side of the point. The new friends left after a bit and we finally caught a few small walleyes on lighted bobbers after dark.

Sunday dawned bright and warm. I took down camp and headed out on another shore fishing tour. Nearly every one of my good spots had other people on them. I only fished two more spots and caught one lonely splake. It was then I said..."Why to do I go up north to fish on Opening Weekend?" A week after opener there is less people and the fishing is usually better. So that is my declaration...I won't go fishing on opener again. Well, maybe I will, but not until Sunday and then stay into the week for a bit. I made it back to Duluth mid afternoon and got unpacked.

The next trip is set for this weekend, Thursday night to Sunday, lake trout fishing with the Smoked Fish Guy and Officer Friendly. That will be the last camping trip until late June.

Nature Moment
: As I paddled across the lake going back to the truck on Saturday, we were suddenly surrounded by a navy of otters. They bobbed up and down in the water and hissed and chirped at us, warning us off their territory. It is always fun to watch otters in the water, so sleek and smooth swimmers.

Monday, May 10, 2010

Spring? Fishing

My lovely bride and precious child went to the Cities for the weekend, so I decided to go camping up north. I managed to convince Officer Friendly and the Wonder Dog to join me. The forecast kept getting worse all week and when we hit the road after work on Friday, the snow was accumulating. We drove out of the snow at about Two Harbors and when we got to the secret drive to campsite on Random Rock Lake at about 7pm, it was just windy and cold. We set up a tarp and Officer Friendly set up her tent. As we ate smokehaus sandwiches for supper the snow began again in earnest. It accumulated to an inch or two, enough to collapse the tarp. We sat in the truck cab after that. We had hoped to listen to the Twins, but they were rained out. The Wonder Dog and I slept in the bed of the truck. His hips are bad enough now that I have to help him into the truck.

We woke up on Saturday to a cold wind but partly sunny skies. The snow was already melting. We took our time getting the canoe loaded up and eating breakfast, hoping that it would warm up a bit. We finally bit the bullet and hit the water. Once we got behind some points, it wasn't too cold. Wasn't warm, though. We initially fished where a small river flows into the lake, hoping the crappies would be stacked up in the current. They weren't. Nothing was in the current. We paddled further upstream, but our path was blocked by a big beaver dam. We turned around and fished some shallow bays. No fish. We then tried deeper water near an island. No crappies, but we did get two hammer handle pike. We tried some more points and bays and only had a couple sad little perch take the bait. We gave up about 4pm and went back to camp. It was nicer there out of the wind. We played catch with a football and then had Italian sausages for supper. Delicious. The temps dropped quickly, so we listened to the Twins in the cab of the truck.

Woke up on Sunday to frozen water bottles. It was chilly, but clear skies ensured it would be warming quickly. We packed up camp and hit the road. First we fished a non-designated lake that is stocked with brown trout. No bites. Next we fished two different streams for brook trout. One creek chub was our only bite. We then tried one more small stream for brook trout. It paid off-we caught several native brook trout. They are absolutely gorgeous fish. Officer Friendly caught one that was about 12 inches long, which is a really nice one for native brook trout in streams. After a bit we noticed that black flies (gnats) were hatching in the river right as we fished. We also noticed the fish were feeding on them. Finally we noticed the fish were so busy eating flies, they didn't want our worms any more. So we headed home, arriving without incident.

Nature Moment:
Just after we left camp, Officer Friendly noticed a large bird sitting on a tree next to the road. It turned out to be a Goshawk, which are really cool birds that hunt in thick forests, expertly making tight maneuvers around the trees as they chase prey. Since they like the thick woods, we don't see them very often. This one hung out next the road for a while, so we got a rare good look at it.

Next weekend is walleye and lake trout opener, so I'll be heading up north again, this time fishing with Captain Karkov and his girlfriend.

Monday, March 22, 2010

Last Winter? Camping Trip

I went on my final winter camping trip of 2010 this past weekend. It was touch and go if we would even made the trip up north, as record breaking warm temperatures were threatening the ice. The Lone Chihuahua and Tangerine Boy arrived at my house from the Twin Cities Wednesday night and got some repacking done, told some stories, and hit the hay.

Officer Friendly arrived at 6:00am the next day and we took off for the Gunflint Trail. After a couple stops we arrived at our destination lake. There was absolutely no snow in the woods. It was 50 degrees and windy. The ice had pulled away from the landing enough that we couldn't get on the ice pack. I wandered around and finally found a spot in the shadow of the shore that we could use to get in the lake. We made the decision to just camp in the parking lot instead of going onto the lake to find a campsite. I didn't want to walk 3 miles only to find out that we couldn't find a spot to access the shoreline to camp. We hit the ice to fish near the parking lot. The ice was still about 20 inches thick and fairly solid, but it was shrinking and it was water logged. We checked out some points and islands and managed to land four lake trout between us and Officer Friendly caught a bonus whitefish. We set up camp on a warm evening and enjoyed venison steaks and mushrooms.

On Friday morning we ate breakfast and were about to hit the lake when a busload of high school seniors arrived. 57 kids were planning on camping on the lake. The max group size is 9 in the BWCA, but that didn't seem to bother the leaders. They were head south, so we headed north. After about a two mile walk, we discovered that open water and bad ice in a couple narrows was preventing us from accessing desirable trout water. We were forced to fish in areas that weren't near really deep water (areas with access to deep water is generally better for lake trout). After a bit, Tangerine Boy and the Lone Chihuahua gave up and headed back to deeper water near the landing. Officer Friendly and I stuck it out in the shallow area, fighting off the cold, gray, windy day. It paid off. We each caught several trout, including 2 26 inch and 1 25 inch fish. We wandered back to the main lake and found that our associates had caught nothing. Just after we arrived, however, Tangerine Boy caught a nice trout on a tip-up. I jigged up another trout just before we called it a day. It was corned beef and cabbage for supper-a wonderful meal provided to us by a co-worker.

On Saturday, after a cold night, we all headed back to the hole that Officer Friendly and I had done so well in the day before. We set up Tangerine Boy and the Lone Chihuahua on our holes and Officer Friendly and I went to a new area to fish. I immediately hit a hot streak-jigging up four nice trout in the first 1/2 hour. As I was fighting the last fish, a nice 25 incher, my tip-up went off, and after landing the trout on the jig rod, I went and caught the one on the tip-up too. It was lucky streak. It slowed after that, so we entertained ourselves on the cold, sunny, and windy day by playing on the clear, slippery ice surface. Throwing a frisbee disc on the bare ice meant it would go forever before stopping. We also used our safety picks and ski poles to propel our sleds down the ice. The Lone Chihuahua also played a game where he let his chair blow away down the lake and he chased it for a long time before catching it. The rest of us declined to play that game. The Lone Chihuahua finally caught another trout that afternoon, but that was it. We went back to the main lake for the 5:00 bite and it again paid off, with the Lone Chihuahua and I each jigging up nice trout. Supper was the world famous Tangerine Boy's wife's secret family recipe chili. Delicious.

On Sunday, the Lone Chihuahua and Tangerine Boy packed up and headed home. Officer Friendly and I fished near the landing for a couple hours and she caught 2 more trout. We packed up at noon and hit the road, stopping for lunch at the Gunflint Tavern. It was a good trip to end the year, even though we we unable to reach our original destination.

Nature Moment: On the way north at the beginning of the trip we spotted a lone wolf along the highway. It was in the same area as we saw a wolf two weeks ago.

Monday, March 8, 2010

Trout on the Beach

It was another trip up north this past weekend. The Lieutenant met me at my house at 6am on Thursday. We hitched the snowmachine trailer up to my truck and headed up the North Shore. It is interesting to drive Highway 61 during this time of year. The North Shore is home to a very large population of wintering whitetail deer due to the south facing slope of the hills lining Lake Superior (the south slope gets more winter sun than other areas). As winter begins to fade into spring, melting snow begins to reveal all the deer carcasses along the roadway. There are hundreds of them. Often, when melting conditions are right, the snow under the carcass won't melt and the carcass will be perched up on a snow podium well above the ground. We call the perched carcasses "deersicles." Deersicles attract all kinds of critters, including ravens, coyotes, and bald eagles. On Thursday morning we even saw a timber wolf at a carcass.

We cruised up the Gunflint Trail to our destination lake. We unloaded the snow machines, hitched up the Otter Sleds with our gear in them, and took off down the lake. It was sunny and it was already getting warm as we made our way to our campsite. It was well above freezing as we set up the winter tent and wood stove, organized our gear, and headed out to a proven fishing spot. No fish house or heaters were needed-instead sunglasses and sunscreen were employed. The Lieutenant caught a few small lake trout and one decent one that afternoon and I caught one trout and lost a couple more. We were surprised to see several other anglers on the lake-we had always found the lake to be very quiet in the past. That night we ate wild rice and trout chowder and enjoyed "fire brick ginger cookies," a winter camping staple.

On Friday it was warm again, although a brisk wind cooled things a bit. It was a fast lake trout bite all day. Lieutenant caught several lake trout and I caught eleven. Most of them were on the small side, but I did get a 27 inch fish that was very heavy for its length. Later in the afternoon, I set the hook on a bigger fish. It immediately peeled off nearly all of the line on my reel and the battle was on. After a bit I started to finally gain some line, but soon felt the hook pop free. Aargh. But wait-I still had him...that was odd. I continued the fight, which didn't feel quite normal...the fish felt weird. I got the fish up to the hole and saw it was a dandy...30 to 32 inches, I am guessing. I also saw the cause of the mysterious fight. The lake trout was no longer hooked. The hook had popped free as I had thought, but somehow the hook and line worked together in a veritable lasso to rope the fish around the dorsal fin. I tried to get the fish up the hole tail first, but it slipped out of the "lasso" and swam away. Shucky darn, I said (or words to that effect). Still, it was a good day of fishing. Some of the fish came on my Windlass tip-up, which is always fun. The Windlass is a tip-up that uses a wind sail to jig the bait automatically. It doesn't get a ton of use because it has to be above freezing and windy, but not too windy, to use it. So using it is a treat. It was a warm evening outside as we enjoyed jalapeno brats and sauerkraut for supper.

On Saturday we went back to the hot spot, which broke my general rule of not fishing in the same spot two days in a row for lake trout. I should have listened to myself. It started out pretty well with a nice fish on a tip-up for me and the Lieutenant hooking, but eventually losing a big fish. It shut down after that. I didn't get any more fish and the Lieutenant only caught a few smaller ones. It was another sunny and warm day. Chicken and Dumplings for supper. Lots of people on the ice again today.

Sunday dawned very warm. Concern about deteriorating snow conditions encouraged us to leave right after packing up. Our concern proved to be true as we were forced to cross some bad ice near the open water of a creek mouth and then the bad snow was causing our snowmachines to not cool properly. We made it back to the truck safely however, and, after a Gunflint Tavern lunch, we got back to Duluth by mid-afternoon.

All-in-all, it was another good trip with good fishing part of the time, and slow fishing part of the time, which is fairly typical. Being able to use the snowmachines up north may be done for the year unless some new snow falls. I'll take one more trip in a couple weeks in which I hope to walk a bit into the BWCA. After that, I'll be looking forward to the canoeing season.

Nature Moment: Friday morning, as we were getting settled over a favorite spot, a chorus of howling wolves let their nearby presence known. They were quite close and quite loud.

Monday, February 22, 2010

Ouch!

It was a beautiful weekend in every way this weekend, except one. Someone forgot to tell the lake trout to bite. Or maybe there weren't any trout in the lake we were fishing.

Officer Friendly showed up at my house at 5am on Friday. We got the truck loaded up, hitched the snow machine trailer, and took off for the Gunflint Trail. After encouraging a cow moose that was licking road salt to get out of way, we got to the lake landing at about 8:30am loaded up the otter sled and took off down the lake. After about 6.5 miles we arrived at a very nice winter camping spot on an island. What makes a good winter camping spot is a site that is low to the water with lots of brush blocking the wind. Pretty much exactly the opposite of what you want in a summer camping spot.

We set up camp and headed out to fish. It was beautiful warm and sunny day with hardly any wind. I dropped Officer Friendly off on a point extending from an island and then proceeded on to fish a point across the lake. Before I even got settled, I got a radio call that Officer Friendly had already caught a nice lake trout on a tip-up. A promising start. I missed one fish on the point and decided to move to a more prominent point. I heard from Officer Friendly that another fish had hit but it didn't make it up the hole. I caught nothing in my new spot and late in the afternoon I started to pack my gear when Officer Friendly called again-a big fish was hooked and a battle was underway. A short time later she called again and said the fish had spit the hook. She was very excited and said it was the biggest fish she had ever seen and that she had fought it "for 2 and a half, 3..." I couldn't believe it. She had fought a fish for 2 and a half hours?!!...she finished her sentence..."2 and a half, 3 minutes." Now, I am sure the fish was a very nice one, but I have witnessed people fight lake trout for 25, 30, 35 minutes before while ice fishing, so her assessment of the length of the battle was a humorous one. The big one that got away was the last bite of the day. We had a supper of jalapeno brats and sauerkraut.

On Saturday we headed out again, with Officer Friendly hitting the same point as the day before and I headed to a prominent point in the middle of the lake. I had a hit right away and missed the fish, and then didn't have any action for two hours. It was another sunny, warm, and calm day. I began trolling from spot to spot, drilling holes and looking for fish. I finally parked in front of a steep cliff and hooked a nice fish and, after a bit of a tussle, there was a funny pop at the end of the line and the fish was gone. I reeled up and discovered my snap swivel had broken. Aargh! Equipment failure haunts me. I re-rigged and soon caught a nice lake trout, but it definitely was smaller than the one I had lost. I met up with Officer Friendly late that afternoon and discovered she hadn't had a bite all day. Not good. We had tortilla soup for supper and listened to the trivia show on the radio.

We fished until 1pm on Sunday and only had 1 very small lake trout to show for it. It was another beautiful day. We packed up the gear and headed back to the landing that afternoon. It was an uneventful ride back to Duluth, other than one moment when the sun was in my eyes while driving and I said "if a deer jumped out in front of us right now, I'd never see it." And of course literally 1 second later a deer did jump out in front of us and I had to plant the brakes to avoid it.

It was a tough fishing trip. With the good weather I couldn't help but think if we had picked a better lake we would have caught more fish. I had been on the lake before without much luck, but others I had been with had good success. I must say I won't be going back to that lake for a while.

Nature Moment: On our way out fishing on Sunday morning, we noticed a large flock of ravens on the ice in front of us. Seconds later we saw two wolves running away from us towards shore. We stopped at the site and discovered a fresh deer kill. During the night the wolves had forced the doe onto the lake and brought her down on the ice. The snow at the kill site showed the evidence of a mighty struggle and the ultimate demise of the deer. The two wolves had already eaten much of the deer. We motored on to our fishing spot, but continued to watch the kill site. The highlight was when the wolves came back to the scene after we left. The ravens and an eagle had arrived back on the kill before the wolves, but when the wolves came back, they charged at all the birds and ran around, scaring them all off. A third wolf tried to come in for a bite at one point, but the two wolves ran it off rather than share. Quite soon thereafter the wolves split the deer into two pieces and drug them off into the woods, leaving only some hair behind. The whole experience was very interesting.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Another Trout Trip

It was time for another lake trout fishing/winter camping adventure this weekend. Being a government lackey, I had Monday off, so the Smoked Fish Guy and I left early Saturday morning and headed north. We settled in at the same campsite as two weeks ago, so setting up camp was a snap and we headed on to the lake and were fishing by 11:00 a.m. It was a mostly sunny day with very little wind, so we checked out a few fishing spots and fished outside the portable ice house some. I ended up getting three nice lake trout that afternoon. The Smoked Fish Guy was denied any fish, although he did have one on for a bit. We cruised back to camp that evening and the Smoke Fish Guy made an incredible supper of smoked pork ribs. Very good. We listened to the local station's Saturday night trivia show and turned in.

On Sunday we were forced to go to the north side of the lake in order to escape the predicted 20mph north winds. When we got set up the wind was still out of the west, however, and we connected with lake trout right away. I caught four and the Smoked Fish Guy caught two. Late in the morning the wind suddenly shifted to the north and it began snowing in earnest. The fish shut down. We never had a bite after the weather changed. Why do lake trout 30 feet down under 24 inches of ice care what the weather is? The snow and wind obliterated our sled trail in, so it was more of a slog getting back to camp that evening. It was Italian Sausages with roasted peppers, fried onions, and pepperchini's for supper that night.

On Monday the wind was still very strong out of the north and it was snowing off and on. We fished until noon and never had a bite. After getting camp packed up we headed down the road to Duluth.

Notes: I am not one to to this very often, but people should be aware that they should never buy any ice fishing gear from Clam. Wow. They might as well call it the "Clam Disposable Fishhouse." One time use only. Half the stitches pulled out, the zipper broke, the materials was wearing to the point of needing duct tape in spots, the top hub bent, and finally the material tore from one of the side, rendering it useless. I had bought the Clam Expedition on Dec. 15th and used it a total of 9 days. I'll be on the phone with them today.

Next camping trip is already coming up this weekend, as my lovely wife and child are visiting friends out of town.

Nature Moment: Heading back down the Gunflint Trail on Monday afternoon, a bull moose crossed in front of the truck and then hung out for a while just off the road, pausing conveniently for photos. Moose populations are decreasing in NE MN, but this one looked healthy.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Trout Below Zero

My first winter camping adventure of 2010 was held this weekend. Of course when I could finally make it up north, the temperatures went south. The sun was out and the winds were calm most of the weekend, though, so it was actually pretty comfortable.

Lows were well below zero in Duluth on Friday morning when my friend Officer Friendly arrived at my house in Duluth. We packed the truck and hit the road at about 6:30am. We headed northeast via the North Shore Drive and then headed inland on the Gunflint Trail. We pulled into our destination lake's public access at about 10:30am. We set up the canvas tent and wood stove in a clearing well off of the parking lot and headed out to fish on a cold but clear and calm day. We could see anglers already set up on the spot we had picked out on the map and we could see a lone angler well down the lake, but they were only other people on the lake that day. We walked a little ways to an island with a steep drop off, got the portable tent set up and started fishing about 1pm. Officer Friendly had never ice fished for lake trout before, so I provided some basic instruction and we fished side for the afternoon. The fish were fairly cooperative...I had three bites on my tube jig and landed two nice lake trout, including one that was unusually dark colored. Officer Friendly didn't have a bite. We were checked by the Conservation Officer, who reported others were having slow fishing. We walked back to the tent under a beautiful sunset to the west and a beautiful moon rise to the east. We fired up the wood stove and enjoyed Italian sausages with fried onions and roasted red peppers for supper.

It was another chilly morning on Saturday, but we both reported sleeping well overnight. We hit the trail and headed back to the same fishing spot. It was another bright sunny day that was a bit breezy, but still comfortable. How was the fishing? We got skunked. But, I wouldn't say the fishing was bad. Between the two of us we had eight fish hooked and headed up to the hole, but not one of those fish hit the top of the ice. 0 for 8. Ouch. Lake trout squirm off the hook better than other fish, but Saturday was humbling. We enjoyed chicken and rice hotdish and the local radio station's trivia show that night.

Sunday was again sunny, but a cold wind was cruising out of the northwest. We drilled some holes off a point near the landing, but discovered our depth map was way off and what was shown as 40 feet deep was 12 feet. We switched to a flat off of a rocky reef I had spotted in the summer. We had immediate action as I got a nice trout all the way to the hole only to have it wrap up on depthfinder transducer and escape. Not a good start. Soon after that I watched a fish on the depthfinder that chased my jig all over the place but refused to hit it hard enough to hook up. In a last ditch effort I put down a minnow on a plain hook and put a bobber on. The fish refused to hit that as well. After a bit, I reeled up the minnow as fast as I could so I could switch back to the jig. As the speeding minnow neared the bottom of the ice, I watched a trout swim up to the minnow with unbelievable speed and hit it. This time it hooked up and after a run back to the bottom, I finally landed the nice laker, breaking the bad luck streak. Now the mission was to get Officer Friendly a first winter lake trout. When a mark showed up on the depth finder and my friend dropped a spoon down to it, the fish swam up and nailed it. After a decent fight I looked down the hole with much anticipation to land the fish and discovered it was a northern pike. Unbelievable. We stuck with it, though, and just after noon a fish hit my bait and stole my minnow. My friend reeled up to the spot and fish hit the spoon and hooked up. After a bit of a tussle, I looked down the hole to see a nice laker (I of course immediately said "Oh no, it's another northern," which Officer Friendly did not find humorous). We were about to the land the fish when it made another run. Suddenly my friend said, "Oh no" and I looked up to discover the line had become hopelessly tangled on the reel. Again, unbelievable. Thankfully, the fish wasn't strong enough to break the line, and we were able to pull the laker in by hand. It was another nice one. With that accomplished, we filleted the two trout and packed up. We broke camp and uneventfully headed back to Duluth. Another fun trip.

My next trip won't be until mid-February...watch for another trip report after that.